The last days of Ireland

Kinsale

Kinsale is sea-side port with a rich history. Our B&B was on top of the hill overlooking the town and a harbour filled with yachts. We walked along the heights and the lovely homes of people no doubt gazing down on their yachts and wondering why they weren’t actually sailing them on this glorious day.

The morning after we arrived we walked around the immense Charles Fort, built in the 17th Century and named after Charles I. It had a very commanding view of the harbour, but interestingly was overlooked by the hill behind it. This was commented on by the royal inspector at the time who said it needed fortifications extended to the top of the hill to prevent an assault from land. He was ignored - bureaucracy prevailed even then - and it was taken by land in 1690 by the Duke of Marlborough. Doh!

Later that day we visited the Old Head Signal Tower. This was the last fully restored tower of 81 that were built around the coast during the Napoleonic wars and would convey warnings between them. This is also the closest point on land to the sinking of the RMS Lusitania several kilometres off the coast by a German U-boat in WW1. There is a well maintained little museum and memorial garden there to honour the dead and lots of sad stories about people who were travelling home to visit family, and could actually see the coast of their homeland when they were torpedoed. 

Cork 

We only spent the day in Cork but it was an interesting place. It was built on a marsh between two rivers - why? No-one really knows, but it has fared better than its sister city, Venice, and is not sinking. We did a walking tour with a local guide called Gareth who filled us in on its history. Some local heroes include Cillian Murphy (Peaky Blinders) and Rory Gallagher, a rock guitarist you’ve never heard of but Jimi Hendrix thought was the best there was.

Le chateau Bar cork - Founded in 1793 by Huguenots from France.

Kilkenny

We stayed in a quaint little farmhouse several miles outside of Kilkenny. Our nearest neighbours were  these pigs who, Christine was eventually devastated to learn from our host family, were owned by a restaurant in town. So we didn’t bother naming them. 

The next day we drove into town and explored the impressive Kilkenny Castle, owned by the Butler family for centuries before the last Butler, the 6th Marquess of Ormonde, donated it to the City for $50. Apparently the upkeep on these things is a nightmare - I mean, the lawn mowing alone! 

The best part of the castle was the picture room, which served as both a ball room and an art gallery. Whilst a lot of the art pieces were your typical family portraits of very rich people looking bored and, well, rich, the ceiling was the extraordinary part, having been rebuilt in the 19th century. The designer had gone all out with a mishmash of motifs and gods from India, Africa, China, and even the America’s. No qualms about cultural appropriation here, and the result was, quite frankly, splendid.   

Afterwards we wandered up to St Canice’s Cathedral and explored the 700 year old tombs before we climbed one of the few round towers still standing in Ireland. Trust me, you would not want to be doing that after a few drinks - it’s only 100ft high but the steps are near vertical. It was worth it though with a great view of the surrounding town. 

Wicklow

Winding through a mountain road which reminded us of the snowy mountains we came upon the little village of Knockrath. If you blinked you would miss it but this area attracts thousands of visitors wanting to hike through forests and open planes.  We sat at an outside BBQ restaurant and had one of the best hamburgers we have ever eaten.  The accommodation at our Airbnb was also spectacular the house and rooms were stunning with views across valleys and forests.  

Bradley walked around the lake and enjoyed the scenery whilst Christine caught up on some much needed reading time.

I don't know if we mentioned this but the weather in Ireland has been unusual with little to no rain since we arrived.  We have been blessed by the weather fairy. Let’s hope it holds as we depart for England!